On the evening of September 13, 2024, the 2024 Overseas Chinese Food Culture Exchange kicked off in Zherong County, Ningde City, highlighting the rich culinary traditions of Fujian Province. The specialty food tasting area, brimming with vibrant Southeast Asian flavors, attracted a large crowd of food enthusiasts eager to experience a diverse culinary adventure.

From bright Indonesian satay skewers to melt-in-your-mouth Indonesian cakes, rich Vietnamese coffee, and refreshing Vietnamese spring rolls, visitors flocked to the stalls to embark on what many called a culinary “journey across exotic lands.”

Amidst the lively atmosphere, 50-year-old Tan Saibao, a Vietnamese returnee from the Donghutang Overseas Chinese Farm, was hard at work displaying his grilling skills. As he battled the heat from the charcoal grill, he handed out freshly skewered satay to eager customers. “I want to share the unique flavors of Southeast Asian cuisine with more food lovers and friends in Zherong,” Tan expressed during an interview with a reporter from China News Service.

Tan moved to Donghutang with his parents in 1978 after returning from Vietnam. This settlement was established to support over 4,000 returnees from Indonesia, Malaysia, and Vietnam. Reflecting on his childhood, he shared, “My parents would prepare a variety of Southeast Asian dishes for us.” He highlighted how satay vendors are a common sight on the streets of Indonesia and other Southeast Asian nations.

What sets his satay apart? Tan attributed its uniqueness to the painstaking attention given to cooking times and seasoning. He explained that high-quality pork neck is sliced thin, marinated, and grilled over charcoal, then served hot with a proprietary dipping sauce—a recipe for culinary delight.

Tan began selling Indonesian satay twelve years ago, and as his reputation for delicious offerings grew, his small stall transformed into a thriving restaurant, aptly named “Ade Indonesian Grill.” “The meat is tender and flavorful. Once someone tries it, they always come back,” he beamed.

Nearby, 70-year-old Chen Shiwei, another Indonesian returnee, presented his famous seven-layer cake—a must-try treat for anyone interested in Indonesian desserts. “I wanted everyone to experience the unique flavors of Indonesian desserts,” he noted.

Having returned to China in 1960, Chen initially settled in Minhou and Lianjiang but moved to Donghutang in 1986. He previously sold Indonesian grilled rice dumplings, managing to sell thousands daily, but now he focuses on custom cake orders. “Those who’ve tried them often come back for more,” he remarked.

Chen detailed the intricate process involved in creating the seven-layer cake, which combines coconut milk, pandan leaves, and cocoa powder to produce colorful batter, steamed in layers. He underscored the delicate balance of temperature and sugar needed to achieve the cake’s glossy appearance and soft, chewy texture that locals adore.

Another highlight of the event was the Vietnamese spring rolls, which differ from their Chinese counterparts mainly due to the use of translucent, net-like rice paper. Fillings typically include black fungus, meat, vermicelli, egg yolk, and shallots.

“There are two types: one is served fresh, while the other is deep-fried, giving everyone the choice based on their preference,” explained Miao Yayang, a Vietnamese returnee. He emphasized that the key element is the dipping sauce, made from Vietnamese fish sauce, lime juice, chili, sugar, fresh mint, and herbs—elements that create a unique flavor profile intrinsic to Vietnamese cuisine.

Miao arrived in China with his grandparents at just seven years old in 1978. Residing now in the East Overseas Chinese Village, he started selling Vietnamese dry goods like coffee and spring rolls in 2007. In 2016, he opened a private restaurant specializing in Vietnamese dishes, which has become so popular that reservations are often full for a week ahead.

“Although I no longer run a restaurant, I hope to continue promoting and showcasing Vietnamese culinary culture through events and personal efforts,” Miao concluded with determination.